AW03 was a masterpiece in showcasing a visually charged rendition of a variety of influences with the unifying tailoring and craftsmanship associated with the designs. This season evolved his pioneering military inspirations into overt homages to items like aviator pressure suits complete with corset-lacing and safety belt style harnesses reframed as bondage in his avant-garde world of razor-sharp tailoring and sexually charged refinement.
Despite the ambitious and saturated visuals, the entire collection maintains a complete cohesiveness only Helmut Lang could achieve, striking a perfect balance with the clean minimalism he's known for. This collection paved the way for contemporary fashion. With iconic items from AW03 being referred to in museums and design studios, its influence and relevance reaches far even today.
One of the most iconic pieces of the 21st century in a rare stone colorway. Details include back panel attachment, removable hand straps, and light padding with cupro lined sleeves.
A truly, truly remarkable item from the Autumn/Winter 2003 collection. It is often that Helmut Lang takes my breath away, but even so there are cases when he completely shatters my understanding of his ability and my perception of a certain garment; this MA-1 is one of those cases.
Lang has transformed the rugged, somewhat hawkish nature of the MA-1 into a carnal, intricate and delicate garment with a few simple deliberations. The body of the MA-1 when subtracting all the applications is the most standard Lang did. It was released in Navy, Army Green and Black but the Stone Cream seems to be the most fitting in my eyes; it is subtle and enticing, a perfect compliment to the sexually charged bondage-inspired applications.
The relationship between beauty and violence is something that is stuck in my mind like a dagger ever since I first began looking into Lang's work, especially those shows incorporating these bondage and military elements. I read in an article about Jun Takahashi's Undercover where he says “The combination [of beauty and violence] is something that gives it real beauty. I am not denying beauty, but presenting it in a different light.”, this summation seems to me very apt. Although, most of Takahashi's work seems a bit difficult to link with Lang's I think this thought applies all the same. It is something that Lang seemingly understands very well, there is a very quiet violence a lot of clothes exude and none I think more represent that quiet violence more so than this jacket.
