"Helmut Lang has often been praised for his 'deconstructive' designs. With basic garment forms as the starting point, Lang created subversively elegant and abstract designs that combined the classic with the avant-garde. This experimentation was amply demonstrated in S/S 2001, where Lang explored ways of revealing the body. Cut-outs and laces were used to decorate tops, trousers and outerwear, while dresses featured straps and perforations that created a subtle yet sensual effect.The wearer's body is highlighted and in turn becomes an essential component of the design itself. S/S 2001 can thus be understood as a quintessential Helmut Lang collection, combining his cerebral conceptualism with a new sense ofraw-yet-refined sexiness." - Endyma
The crossed bandage details are one of the most iconic motifs of SS01, exemplifying a subtle sexiness of an unconventional deconstruction, able to be worn with either side in the front as showcased in the runway.
With the straps in front, the anatomically positioned crossing and use of a luxuriously smooth cotton enables the body to become integral to the design of the garment supported by intricate darting throughout while the curved seams in the upper back anatomically accentuates the shoulder blade. Worn the other way, the curved seams continue to flatter and conform to the wearer.
The construction is impeccable despite the final simplicity of the garment, with beautiful curved panels and seams near the hem and extremely clean collars and edges contrasting with the seamless straps.