S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most acclaimed and celebrated seasons. Purist and idiosyncratic, its aesthetic is now now seen as one of 21st century fashion's defining moments. Citing the 'iridescent color'and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies as inspiration, Lang created simple athletic ensembles that were intensified by captivating abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-out sections and unexpected flourishes of saturated colour. Minimalist technical jerseys, cotton canvas and patent leather formed the majority of the collection, with bursts of pearlescent taffetas creatingstriking aesthetic mutations.
Among its many iconic outerwear offerings, S/S 2004 featured a variety of bomber jackets similar to the designs Lang presented for his A/W 2003 collection. The idiosyncratic aesthetic of the 2003 versions was maintained in full force, but realised in a variety of unconventional materials better suited for spring/summer. This outstanding example is crafted frompure silk organza; Lang rarely used such unconventional couture fabrications for his menswear, and the result is fascinating to say the least. The luxurious material is nearly transparent, giving the jacket a strikingly ethereal appearance. Furthermore, the fabric's surface has been coated with resin that lends it structure, a subtle luster and a crisp hand.
The jacket has a beautifully detailed design based on classic MA-1 military jackets. The front has a zipper closure that extends slightly below the hem, creating a unique point of interest that has become synonymous with Helmut Lang. The back features Lang's signature bondage strap, in the form of a long cotton tape that hangs below the waist, securing to the jacket with D-rings. The left sleeve is finished with a militaristic zipped patch pocket, while the waist pockets have ornate curvilinear flaps with press studs. Finally, the designer's distinctive elastic cuff strapsdecorate the sleeves. The silhouette is loose and elongated with dropped shoulders.
As to be expected from Lang, a closer inspection of the construction of the piece gives us another opportunity to appreciate the thoughtfulness of its design. On the front, we can see that the storm flap behind the zipper closure is reinforced with ornate triangular topstitching. Interestingly, the back is constructed from a single piece of fabric; three masterfully executed darts control its volume and give it a three-dimensional shape. On the interior, a loop of elastic string sewn discreetly on the side seam allows for the bondage strap's tip tofall precisely without undesirable folds. Likewise, the heavy rib knit inserts that finish the neckline, waistband and cuffs have interwoven horizontal lines that reinforce their structure while adding a subtly decorative element. A level of polished minimalism is maintained through the use of luxurious heavyweight zippers in polished silver (made by Lampo in Italy), featuring chunky military pulls and grosgrain tape tabs. Finally, the unlined interior is precisely finished with flat fell seams that protect the delicate fabric from fraying.
To conclude, this much-coveted jacket is a testament to the enduring influence of Helmut Lang's streetwear. Combining the designer's iconic bondage elements with couture precision, it is a truly exemplary showpiece that rightfully deserves a prominent place in the collection of amajor contemporary art museum. Strongly recommended.
Made in Italy Silk 6/10 condition, repaired tears along pockets and underarm as pictured.
