Kiko Kostadinov is known for his garment construction and this piece perfectly illustrates how expert patternmaking is put to use to fuse utility, tailoring, and concept-driven fashion design. The 'Cubist' shirt is cut from a lightweight Loro Piana storm system fabric with water resistant capabilities and a beautiful smooth texture. The fit is slim and tailored, featuring abstract curve-panel construction across the back of the body. Two semicircular seams dance on either side, one tracing from neckline to hem and the other emerging from below and cutting towards the upper back as a dart. The sides of the body are constructed as separate panels and continue into the arms as a full length gusset. This gusset is instrumental in retaining a comfortable range of motion given the rest of the sleeve is constructed as a set-in tailored sleeve (not unlike those found on suit jackets) and the fabric has little to no stretch. The front features two pleated details that flare open or fold closed while the wearer moves and leaves a strong graphic impression. The beginning of the pleats intersects where the underarm gusset and armhole meet--maybe a bit gratuitous to mention but extremely satisfying to see. This garment sits perfectly in a middle ground between shirt and jacket with blind-stitched cuff, oversized buttons and collar, shaped back, and a tailored curved sleeve. It appears both elegant and technical, tailored and utilitarian, and can be styled in so many different ways.
8/10 Condition, with no rips but some small snags in the fabric here or there. They have been documented in the photos. No stains.
