For Penultimate Spring 2020, designer Xiang Gao drew inspiration from Dunhuang Buddhist cave-temple paintings, adopting the sweeping, curvaceous forms of fire and water as a visual foundation. In the collection, Xiang ingeniously bridges craft disciplines as a proxy for bridging culture, utilizing the natural curvatures of marbling to mirror sweeping waves or floating figures with long, curved trailing robes. Here, the foundation of a western shirt serves as the perfect canvas where these inventive visual elements can find their home as new expressions of traditional ornamentation-- trimmed marbled silk becomes a sculpted yoke and shoulder, or stacked layers of piping detail the cuff placket and collar. All the different elements (marbled silk, painted leathers, leopard painted pony-hair) come together as a collage with incredible artistry, demonstrating Xiang's expertise in synthesizing and remixing the discoveries of her deep visual research.
Cut in a mix of fleece-backed purple technical polyester and orange doubleweave stretch polyester. Deadstock recycled button closure at the front and cuffs with one contrast knotted button at the diaphragm. Pleated back and sharp set-in shoulder.
Made in New York at Xiang's Studio 10/10 Condition, new with tags
Fit Notes: Tagged a size M, this shirt fits slim to size with high armholes and slim sleeves. Best suited for a true s or slim medium.