Black Twill

With Fall 2006 came a return to the strict, streamlined tailoring of Raf's work in the 90s--remixed and recast with a hypermodern material palette and informed by the heavily layered, subversive styling of youth-rebellion-centric collections like Fall 2001. Trousers were cut slim and exacting, with sharp white shirting and slim suit jackets up top. This and the austere black/white/grey color palette established a minimalist foundation for the show which Raf would transform, twist, and distort.

After the prelude of shirts-and-trousers looks, we saw the first glimpse of an alternative menswear. Coats featured layered bodices and mixed different styles of historical men's tailoring with a cleanliness of detailing and material that rendered them supermodern. The cutaway tails of a morning coat framed the bottom of a straight-cut chester, with both layers constructed as part of a singular garment. Same with the next peak lapel coat which layered a cropped victorian blazer over a long extended chester body. 

This type of composite garment took over the show, evolving into ever more parasitic and otherworldly forms. Doubled puffers in nylon taffeta were conjoined at the collar, creating the appearance of a bulbous extraterrestrial being shedding its skin. Coats with the same connected collar design mixed synthetics and naturals, contrasting traditional and futuristic textures. They nodded towards the layering and puffy trenches of Fall 2001 and gave off the same protective and armor-like atmosphere, although this time with less rough edges and more space-age refinement. 

The accordion detailing then appeared, providing a reprise from the forms and volume of the double-layered coats. Looks were stark in comparison, shifting focus onto the accordion structures and the fabrics--black nylons glistened with a wet membranous quality, gold polyamides shone with an industrial, metallic gleam. It manifested in boots, trousers, funnel neck sweatshirts, and most impressively, coats like this one. Sharp, minimalist, drawing from archetypical menswear (raglan shoulders, slash waist pockets, and single back vent) but with a statement tiered 'alien' hood mounted at the collar. Strips of the heavyweight twill face fabric are interspersed with black nylon taffeta, which stretches and contracts like a slick 'skin' between the segments of the huge funnel hood. Dark and cavernous, oblong, sagging, and irregular, the hood becomes a organic, extraterrestrial, and almost living sculpture when worn up, perfectly encapsulating a menswear that's been morphed and twisted by the future. 

Made in 
9/10 Condition, with no rips, stains, tears or damage. Very slight fading of the cotton twill. 

Fit Notes:
Tagged size 44 but cut is oversize and very roomy, suitable for up to a size large.