Yang Li's Spring/Summer 2013 collection showcased a new type of luxury, one he defined as something specifically erroneous or imperfect. 'Rough is New' Li said, seeing roughness imbuing a sense of spontaneity and emotion in what otherwise could be clinically minimalist garments. It took the form of edges slashed and left raw, bodice backs unfinished as two long ribbons of fabric, irreverently draping and trailing behind the wearer. The collection was presented as a lookbook, set in London's Chinatown with a mix of crowdsourced photos culled from social media and ones shot by Scott Trindle (a conceptual precursor to the Fall/Winter 2019 Womenswear 'Automatic Show' which took place completely on Instagram with models sharing their own self-shot, self-styled looks). The dramatically voluminous maxi silhouettes and ephemeral sheer fabrics stood in stark contrast against the 'roughness' of chipped red paint, weathered facades, and everyday passersby in Chinatown. Though almost anti-editorial in concept, the lookbook actually captures a sense of beauty and serenity in the way time is seemingly suspended in the photos.
Stripped back, yet sharp. This Benz jacket from Spring/Summer 2013 mixes formalities with its cropped, boxy, utilitarian cut and elegant drape thanks to the weighty, fluid, and airy viscose face fabric. Semi-sheer, there are shades of transparency thanks to the layers of fabric at the chest patch pockets, epaulet-esque shoulder panel, and jacket facing. Bi-swing back construction bar-tacked down in a bold contrast red lets the jacket cut close to the body without sacrificing comfort and freedom of movement. A weighty matte black-coated raccagni center zip adds the slightest sheen of luxury.
Made in Italy 8/10 Condition, with no rips, stains, or tears. Some loose threads around woven label and wear on matte coating of zipper.
