Balenciaga Spring 2020 centered around the theme of 'Power Dressing,' and the role a work uniform plays in transforming one's persona. In a subversive twist, Demna forgoes modern-day standards of attractive tailoring and instead recreates the opposite: the ill-fitting suits from a recently-departed era of corporate middle-management (complete with Mastercard Logo flip). Angular, boxy "power shoulders" on loose fitting jackets are paired with wide, extended-rise suit trousers that make one look stouter and wider, a study of how fit and body coalesce to form a specific and recognizable 'look,' (representing, again, ideas of embodied cultural capital). You don't wear the suit, the suit doesn't wear you...but rather, donning the suit mixes the symbolic value of the garment with the cultural value of who wears it in this specific way, allowing you to adopt a whole new persona and character.
Later, in the show the 'seamless' blazer shown here appears. Where the early Mastercard suits studied corporate slouch and sloven, we see these later seamless looks as Demna Gvasalia's take on the minimalist tailoring that served as a marker of art-world taste (and subsequently--power) in the late 90s/early 00s. The ever-so-slightly-wide structured shoulders, fluid vertical drape, obsessively 'neutral' lapel and button stance, slightly elongated proportions, and austere subtraction of seamlines and details nods to Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, etc. The blazer attains its striking visual presence from what's missing (one-piece bodice with no vents, no darts and no seams, plain cuff) and the shape of what remains (incredibly sharp squared corners on pocket flaps, perfectly sized notch lapels). This blazer works very hard to appear effortless, but you can just enjoy the fruits of this minimalist tailoring with ease as the plain back and cuffs make it fit a unique sense of flexibility and versatility. It becomes a piece that's very easy to throw on with whatever.
Cut in a matte, medium weight wool twill with a slightly brushed 'flannel' finish for softness and a beautiful fluid drape. Finished with inner breast pockets, two button closure, and full 'Balenciaga' branded cupro lining.
Made in Italy 9/10 Condition, with no rips, stains, or tears
Fit Notes: Tagged a size 46, fits oversize with boxy shoulders. Suitable for a small looking to wear with dramatic wide shoulders, or medium with a slightly boxy/oversize look. A slim large may fit as well