AW03 was a masterpiece in showcasing a visually charged rendition of a variety of influences with the unifying tailoring and craftsmanship associated with the designs. This season evolved his pioneering military inspirations into overt homages to items like aviator pressure suits complete with corset-lacing and safety belt style harnesses reframed as bondage in his avant-garde world of razor-sharp tailoring and sexually charged refinement.
Despite the ambitious and saturated visuals, the entire collection maintains a complete cohesiveness only Helmut Lang could achieve, striking a perfect balance with the clean minimalism he's known for. This collection paved the way for contemporary fashion. With iconic items from AW03 being referred to in museums and design studios, its influence and relevance reaches far even today.
Perhaps one of Helmut Lang's most iconic yet understated silhouettes, his fishtail parka is one of the best homages and love letters to military garments there is. This version holds nothing back in elevating the derived parka, utilizing an extremely luxurious and smooth midnight cotton face fabric with a removable plush fleece liner and a removable goat fur hood liner adding structure and weight. The lining is finished off with cupro sleeves and a beautiful elastic cuff adorned with bondage strap motifs.
This was also one of the designs appropriated for Helmut Lang's Re-Edition, yet despite any advancements made, the original still maintains superior construction with better materials and a more flattering drape.
Made in Italy Cotton, Goat Fur, Cupro 9.5/10 condition
