Featured in multiple runway shows across many years, the chester coat shape that forms the foundation of this piece is a staple within Helmut's repertoire. With subtlely structured shoulders and a slightly tailored waist, it has a subdued elegance and cleanliness that give it an air of timelessness (or as close to timeless as one can get). Rendered in a thick, plush cashmere/wool face fabric, the coat hangs off the shoulders with a weighty, fluid drape. At the upper arm, a statement chunky knit sleeve is inserted in place of a tailored one, creating a compelling play on proportions and an unexpected, subversive, layered look. The shape matches many of the composite layered ensembles shown in AW03--harnesses with a strap at the bicep, sleeve caps ending right under the shoulder, or knit armwarmer sleeves pulled up to below the armpit. While the AW03 runway reads more utilitarian and military inspired with its iconic aviator chaps, bombers, and fleece/3M reflective fabrics, this piece leans formal and versatile. It can be worn with other tailored garments or styled with military and workwear pieces for some tension in the mixed formalities.
Made in Italy 9/10 Condition with some small, mostly unnoticable pulls in the knit sleeve. No rips, stains, or tears.