"Helmut Lang has often been praised for his 'deconstructive' designs. With basic garment forms as the starting point, Lang created subversively elegant and abstract designs that combined the classic with the avant-garde. This experimentation was amply demonstrated in S/S 2001, where Lang explored ways of revealing the body. Cut-outs and laces were used to decorate tops, trousers and outerwear, while dresses featured straps and perforations that created a subtle yet sensual effect.The wearer's body is highlighted and in turn becomes an essential component of the design itself. S/S 2001 can thus be understood as a quintessential Helmut Lang collection, combining his cerebral conceptualism with a new sense ofraw-yet-refined sexiness." - Endyma
The crossed bandage details are one of the most iconic motifs of SS01, heavily featured throughout editorials and exemplifying a subtle sexiness of an unconventional deconstruction, able to be worn with either side in the front as showcased in the runway.
The anatomically positioned straps and use of a luxurious elastic silk enables the body to become integral to the design of the garment supported by having a gender neutral cut by omitting the darting on the upper body seen in the cotton iteration also showcased on Huiben.
The construction is impeccable despite the final simplicity of the garment, with beautiful curved panels and dart details near the hem, and extremely clean collars and edges contrasting with the seamless straps.