Spencer Phipps's founded his eponymous label in 2018 after 10 years of industry experience working under Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten. The label was an LVMH prize finalist in 2019 and entered into the Paris Fashion Week circuit after 2 seasons. Phipps investigates the fashion industry's relationship with the environment and sustainability, asking us to think hard about the purpose and longevity of our garments, especially in the context of seasonal, short term, trend-driven fashion. It questions whether an entity existing in the fashion world can promote sustainability and actually make a difference. Leading by example, Phipps incorporates sustainable practices wherever possible, in both the brand's business and design decisions. Season by season, Phipps explores an expanding range of environmentally friendly textiles, with materials including recycled down, regenerated nylon, and organic cottons that utilize less water (a full list can be found on their sustainability page). Local and ethical production is prioritized, with many of their manufacturers holding GOTS certification, and while some pieces must be outsourced, Phipps makes donations to offset their carbon footprint.
Phipps design centers around investigating and recasting American Men's dress with contemporary style sensibilities. Spencer Phipps says each season is based on different 'American Heroes' with the American West on display in Spring/Summer 2020 'Like a Rock.' Models walked down the runway in earth-toned westernwear, outdoors gear, and tailoring--not as 3 distinct categories but eclectically mixed together in a compelling clash of formalities and demographics. Cowboy hats met climbing chalk bags met technical alpine footwear, channeling a nature-centric frontier spirit. Structured blazers sat over geology-diagram print long shirts cut with a ruched bottom panel to give the look of a shirtdress--a challenging new take on masculinity.
The workwear pants shown here illustrate the mix of aesthetics and fusion of styles that SS20 champions. Detailed with the hang loops and cargo pockets of a traditional workman's trouser, it's injected with a definite western edge through the chunky metal hardware and rivet reinforcement that nod towards jeans. The pants feature an exaggerated wide cut but with a set of knee darts that cant the lower leg backwards, creating a flared, bootcut look when worn. The greenish-brown cotton has a beautifully worn in hue and looks as if its been weathered and sandblown, rounding out the workwear-western look.
Finished with webbing reinforcements at high stress areas and a reinforced crotch gusset for mobility and durability. Asymmetrical cargo pocket array. Snap button closure at waist with zipper fly.