AW18 Reversible Coverall Coat with Faux Fur Lining
A bit about the brand written by @kylebisc, an aficionado based in LA:
I think it has to do with instinct…
There’s this fantasy that I believe people entertain when they think about clothes...mostly clothes they want to wear or want to buy—this floating idea of knowing something you want in the moment and having it and it being right on the money. We all want the leather jacket in the window or the pants in the magazine to sit as sharply, slouch as raffishly, etc. as they seem like they would in our minds...The imagined fulfillment of this anticipation taps into some sort of visceral satisfaction, or a sort of uncanny sense of agency—what we “visualize” can in fact be what we see, feel, experience.
More often than not the disparity (expectations vs. reality) is too great, to the point where as consumers we’ve shaped ourselves to hope, but not hope too big; dream, but subconsciously know what we’re walking into; acquire, and feel a slight tinge of disappointment, which is almost immediately buried from sight to protect egos.
That being said...from the first time I started to pay attention to sulvam collections, to the first time I handled that tactile summer seersucker, to the first thing I owned (a beloved cotton-camel cutout sweater), to presently as I continue to snap up sulvam here and there, keep pace with seasonal releases, decipher Google-translated interviews, and soak up the branding, the imagery, the story without a plot...if I think through all of my experiences, moments where I interface with the brand, I have always enjoyed this consistent precision. This startling sureness that what I am taking in is something so in-line with what I am feeling, what I desire. I am continuously surprised with how style after style, jumping from collection to collection, I’m being delivered what I want, sometimes even before I know what I want yet. I see the tencel tunics and suddenly I have found the perfect tunic I didn’t know I was missing. I focus in on one season, document the fabrics, and trace their use through different forms splayed across different bodies. The transitions between collections feel more like connections—one gradual, organic development rather than starkly spaced edits. Contentment. There is no other brand that so uniquely runs adjacent to my personal tenet of intuition.
The instinctual palatability of sulvam translates directly during the process of coordinating an outfit. The precise, instantaneous alignment between thought and desire...oblique-hem tanks fall so easily beneath cropped lurex knits, above pooling A-lines, within puffers surfaced with trails of serging and long thread tails.
And the clothes themselves, the means by which they come to be...Fujita-san’s design process which has a distinct lack of design, just gut decisions sublimated as draping fabric, cutting patterns...a rough carving for a pocket here, “random” jagged necklines there, perfectly thoughtless slashes for vents on blazers and trousers alike...these are obvious visual cues but what’s less obvious is the resonance between creation, presentation, consumption, and mutual world-building. These are aspects that I continuously revisit—and when I look at the same runway presentations for the nth time, I feel a personal sense of parallelism, as though I am a little closer to finding something new within myself still.
Words are neither a direct translation or an entire capture of how I feel. Often I feel like in writing something in words, I (intentionally or otherwise) create meaning that wasn’t there to be perceived before but is now there…
There’s nothing I can write about sulvam that will properly explain what I am seeing, what I am feeling, and what I am thinking, but I find that this particular incompleteness...isn’t it so essentially sulvam?
About the Product: Coverall coat in custom developed 100% cotton with 3D textured check pattern. The fabric is full of visual depth, dyed a beautiful grassy green shade, and has a soft and supple hand. The faux-fur (nylon/cotton blend) 'lining' is cut as numerous abstract panels and sewn on with long, curved stitchlines, fastened almost like a collage with floating edges left to drape and float off the face fabric. The coat is constructed with welted seams and tags hidden in the patch pockets so it can be worn reversed to show the lining patches on the outside. Boxy oversize shoulder with low armpits means it suits M-L flexibly with a relaxed fit and super easy wearing experience.
Made in Japan 9/10 Condition with no rips, stains, or tears