Demna Gvasalia's work is at times considered satirical, at times considered mimetic, but most importantly, in our eyes, it is sociological and tinged with contemporary realism. What is most compelling about Demna is the way he maps out the contemporary visual landscape--he documents everything from the everyday objects (reflector heel & lighter heel boots, car-mat skirts) to the archetypes of people (the 'uniform') to the actual lived behaviors of people. "At Balenciaga, wearing clothes inspires new clothes," he has said in a Vogue review and "I try to channel people" he has told How to Spend It. This explains the warped and distorted shapes: jackets curved and cut as though they were shrugged backwards...coats with dramatically raised shoulders like the wearer is tucking their chin down to protect against the cold...10 layer parkas that are borne of necessity and human ingenuity, the list goes on. Since the beginning, Demna's projects have been reminiscent of Hans Eijkelboom's "People of the Twenty-First Century," a stern, no bells and whistles snapshot of sociocultural patterns and visual mimesis. In Bourdieuian terms, Vetements and Balenciaga study visual manifestations of embodied cultural capital-- the statement "It's not what you wear it's how you wear it" but in fully constructed, finished garments with the attitude built in.
For his final collection at Vetements, Demna played on the uniforms and archetypes found in urban life as he always does, sending models through the McDonald's-turned-runway in mock police uniforms, bathrobes, wrinkled suiting, and sportswear. He has always reminded us of the power of uniform and the authority imbued in it, but also the possibility to appropriate it, twist it, and reuse it for ones own purpose. Since the beginning, he has spoken about wearing secondhand uniforms and being mistaken for security at events. These boots showcase that idea: as the runway evolves from authoritative to managerial to celebrity, then finally to the everyday city-goer, the clothes and costumes change but the boots remain throughout, as if the adoption and appropriation of this aggressive and militaristic footwear has already happened during the course of the show.
Polished leather with a buffed high-shine cap toe. Four snaps along each shoe's upper with center-zip front closure. Sewn welt with screws securing lug outsole.
Made in Italy 10/10 Condition, new with box
Tagged size 41 fits US men's 8-9. May be tight for those with a high instep.
Measurements: Outsole: 42.5cm Shaft Height (from base of upper): 20cm Heel: 5cm
